Tick list
Climbed routes, maybe a comment, and occasionally a photo.
Fjällbo, Kenneths led
Date: 2018-06-10
A good route. I don’t think it deserves the 3 stars in the guide book but a good route nevertheless. Really easy climb for being a 5.
Gear: Two large cams and a nut up to the tree, sling the tree and nuts after the tree.
Anchor: Bolted
Utby, Till
Date: 2018-06-13
Nice route on the cliff with the same name. Best done as a transport to the route Luftiga Steget (i.e. climb until the plateaux, regroup, and change line).
Gear: Not sure but, a size 2 and a size 3 cam, nuts and maybe a size 0.75 cam at the end.
Anchor: Excellent tree on the plateaux!
Utby, Luftiga Steget
Date: 2018-06-13
Such a good route. Exposed. The line scaling the cliff face is even better but a bit too exposed at the moment.
Gear: Apart from one or two size 2 or 3 cams at the beginning of the route, you only need nuts.
Anchor: If finished to the right, trees, if finished to the left, a 0.75 cam and either a quite large or a quite small nut.
Utby, Alfa Helix
Date: 2018-06-13
not done
Starts of to the right of the big crack/opening. (Early pro will likely result in severe rope drag.) Difficult to put pro around the crux.
Gear: Cam 2 in horizontal crack as first protection, one nut and maybe a small cam before the tree. Sling the tree as final pro.
Anchor: There is a bolted anchor to repel from, but for belaying your second I would use the tree in the corner of the plateaux.
Gärdsås, Jug
Date: 2018-06-16
Nice route with two alternatives for the middle. All parts are easily protected.
Gear: A little bit of each. Nice to have a size 2 cam behind the big block.
Anchor: A tree and maybe a cam backup.
Gärdsås, Luftmadrassen-ish
Date: 2018-06-16
Climbed the route but instead of traversing the second roof to Älgens Överraskning I went straight up. Really nice route nevertheless!
Gear: Quite long route (uses a lot of gear). I used sizes 0.5, 0.75, 1, and 2, but would have been nice with some more smaller cams. Placed quite a lot of nuts but only a couple felt bomber.
Anchor: A juniper and two cams (size 3 and size 4) made a nice three point anchor.
Gärdsås, Älgens Överraskning
Date: 2018-06-16
Such a nice route.
Gear: Used a full Friend rack, except the 4. Could have used at least one (preferably two) more size 1 for the traverse (did it with only a bomber nut in the dihedral, that was intense…). Some nice nuts overall, but mostly vertical cracks.
Anchor: Juniper and a size 4 cam.
Utby, La Triviata
Date: 2018-06-26
A 4+, and as is common with routes graded 4 in Utby it is weird. Not bad, not good.
Gear: Do not remember.
Anchor: Tree, quite far in, backed up with a #3 Friend.
Utby, Rönnleden
Date: 2018-06-26
A rare, very nice, 4+ route. In the guide book it is declared a really good beginners route. I would agree, but building the anchor might be a bit tricky.
Gear: A few nuts and I think I placed a #1 Friend.
Anchor: #2 and #.75 Friends, yet the anchor was still a bit too low for my taste.
Utby, Ragnhilds Näsa
Date: 2018-06-26
Not done
First good placement I found was on the actual nose (5m up). It might be possible to place something in the first horizontal crack, but I could not find anything. I fell after placing my first piece, but before being able to mantle onto the nose. After a rest and securing my cam with a nut, I was able to proceed to the wall climbing part, but with only an additional #2 in the big horizontal crack I did not feel safe proceeding up the slab. It is probably fine to take a fall there, but I’ll probably TR this one before I give it another try.
Gear: #.5 in the nose, backed up with a small nut. #2 in the horizontal after the nose.
Anchor: N/A
Utby, Asterik och Obelix
Date: 2018-07-06
Dihedron that offers som really nice stemming and crack climbing.
Gear: #.5, #.75, and #1 Friends. Finished of with a sling around the tree.
Anchor: I did not belay my second from the top, but he opted to TR the route from the birch.
Fjällbo, Gunnars Skräck
Date: 2018-07-15
A really nice slab, sort of in a dihedron.
Gear: Some really nice nuts and maybe a #1 friend.
Anchor: Bolted if you do only the first part.
Fjällbo, Skivblocket
Date: 2018-07-15
Spectacular piece of rock just standing there. Quite exposed and serious.
Gear: #.75 friend and one bolt.
Anchor: Bolted
Fjällbo, ?
Date: 2018-07-15
A short crack. If you traverse to the right and then continue up the route is called Limus. We did not know this and went straight up (significantly easier).
Gear: #.5, #.75, (#1) friends, one big (13/14) nut in the upper section.
Anchor: If you have duplicates of small cams, you can use these. I had to run into to the woods and find a tree…
Fjällbo, Chivas Regal
Date: 2018-07-19
Nice crack, with a mini traverse on a good ledge. Crack climbing that does not require jamming.
Gear: A lot. Used a full set of friends (minus the #4) and 4 or 5 nuts.
Anchor: Trees. So many good trees.
Fjällbo, Koskenkorva
Date: 2018-07-19
Crack to the right of the previous route that has given name to the crag. Not as nice as Chivas regal.
Gear: A lot of cams and nuts.
Anchor: Trees. So many good trees.
Fjällbo, Drambuie
Date: 2018-07-19
First 5+ on-sight. Committing start, but not very difficult.
Gear: #.5 - #1 and a #3 friends, + a lot of nuts.
Anchor: Trees. So many good trees.
Gärdsås, Mowgli
Date: 2018-07-31
Nice, shorter, route well in the shades on a very warm day.
Gear: One 14 nut, and basically a set of friends. (Might have omitted the #.75.)
Anchor: A very big tree
Utby, Skärselden
Date: 2018-08-04
Crack climbing, but not very difficult. Nice route!
Gear: A diverse rack is good.
Anchor: Two medium sized nuts. Also trees available a bit further from the edge.
Utby, Slabben
Date: 2018-08-04
Basically a huge block that forms a nice slab.
Gear: Two nuts and a cam!
Anchor: Nope. We simply jumped off at the end.
Utby, Spagaten
Date: 2018-08-04
Such. A. Good. Route.
I have probably climbed this route 10 times, but never on lead. The experience is so much more intense when leading it. Despite being very familiar with the route I went of the route a little bit (started doing the “direct” version, bumps the grade up one notch to a 6-) and had to down climb two moves. Ugh. Pulled myself together and finished the route. Intense!
Gear: A lot of really nice nuts, but some cams are nice to have (#1 and #2).
Anchor: There’s a big block you can put a sling around. Also some bomber nut placements and if you have #.5 and #.75 cams there are good placements for those too.
Utby, Torrsimmet
Date: 2018-08-04
Intense climbing that requires some really cool body jams. Spectacular body roll move at the end if one wants to avoid belly flopping your way up the last part.
Gear: Definately requires big gear (used #3 and #4, could easily have used another of each). Some good nuts.
Anchor: Sling around a big rock and a nut in the wall did the trick.
Utby, Laybacksprickan
Date: 2018-09-19
Quite nice crack that offers one or two good layback moves. Video
Gear: Small cams. Used 1/2 Alien Revo, 2x.5 Friends, and a couple of small nuts.
Anchor: 240 sling around a tree.
Utby, Mirceas Led
Date: 2018-09-19
A wonderful, but oh so short, finger crack. A bit tricky to get up onto, but offers solid crack climbing for 8 meters. Video can be found here.
Gear: Mostly nuts, but a .5 Friend (or x4 in this case) was good to have.
Anchor: 240 sling around a tree.
Fjällbo, Sodom
Date: 2018-09-24
Two routes in one(?). A bit weird, but quite good. Especially the upper half which offers some nice stemming in a tight dihedral. Video
Gear: A bit of everything
Anchor: A #4 and a #.75 Friend. (There are trees further up that can be used.)
Ramberget, Dubbelsprickan
Date: 2018-10-20
The hardest 4- I have ever done. Ramberget in general seems quite sandbagged, but I guess that’s what happens when one person establishes a whole crag? Video
Gear: Small to medium sized friends and a few nuts.
Anchor: A #4 and a #3 Friend.
Ramberget, Hörnet [First Ascent]
Date: 2018-10-20
A really, really, nice crack in a dihedral. Not in the guide book, but I have a hard time imagining this has not been climbed before. Nevertheless, I would grade this 5(-) but given the other grades in the area it is probably a 4(-). Video
Gear: #1 friends and smaller
Anchor: IIRC one #4 and one larger nut.
Ramberget, Taktraversen
Date: 2018-10-20
Probably the best route on the left wall (Ramberget constitutes of Stora Plattan to the left and Svarta Väggen to the right). Varied climbing with a non trivial traverse under a roof. We ended on the chain (which can be used for rappelling) but you can probably climb the last meter or so if you want to.
Gear: Quite a lot. Requires quite big gear, but you may also find small cams useful.
Anchor: I clipped the chain, was lowered, and belayed my second from the ground. Presumably much more convenient than attempting to build something at the top.