Tick list

Climbed routes, maybe a comment, and occasionally a photo.

Fjällbo, Kenneths led

Date: 2018-06-10

A good route. I don’t think it deserves the 3 stars in the guide book but a good route nevertheless. Really easy climb for being a 5.

Gear: Two large cams and a nut up to the tree, sling the tree and nuts after the tree.

Anchor: Bolted

Utby, Till

Date: 2018-06-13

Nice route on the cliff with the same name. Best done as a transport to the route Luftiga Steget (i.e. climb until the plateaux, regroup, and change line).

Gear: Not sure but, a size 2 and a size 3 cam, nuts and maybe a size 0.75 cam at the end.

Anchor: Excellent tree on the plateaux!

Utby, Luftiga Steget

Date: 2018-06-13

Such a good route. Exposed. The line scaling the cliff face is even better but a bit too exposed at the moment.

Gear: Apart from one or two size 2 or 3 cams at the beginning of the route, you only need nuts.

Anchor: If finished to the right, trees, if finished to the left, a 0.75 cam and either a quite large or a quite small nut.

Utby, Alfa Helix

Date: 2018-06-13

not done

Starts of to the right of the big crack/opening. (Early pro will likely result in severe rope drag.) Difficult to put pro around the crux.

Gear: Cam 2 in horizontal crack as first protection, one nut and maybe a small cam before the tree. Sling the tree as final pro.

Anchor: There is a bolted anchor to repel from, but for belaying your second I would use the tree in the corner of the plateaux.

Gärdsås, Jug

Date: 2018-06-16

Nice route with two alternatives for the middle. All parts are easily protected.

Gear: A little bit of each. Nice to have a size 2 cam behind the big block.

Anchor: A tree and maybe a cam backup.

Gärdsås, Luftmadrassen-ish

Date: 2018-06-16

Climbed the route but instead of traversing the second roof to Älgens Överraskning I went straight up. Really nice route nevertheless!

Gear: Quite long route (uses a lot of gear). I used sizes 0.5, 0.75, 1, and 2, but would have been nice with some more smaller cams. Placed quite a lot of nuts but only a couple felt bomber.

Anchor: A juniper and two cams (size 3 and size 4) made a nice three point anchor.

Gärdsås, Älgens Överraskning

Date: 2018-06-16

Such a nice route.

Gear: Used a full Friend rack, except the 4. Could have used at least one (preferably two) more size 1 for the traverse (did it with only a bomber nut in the dihedral, that was intense…). Some nice nuts overall, but mostly vertical cracks.

Anchor: Juniper and a size 4 cam.

Utby, La Triviata

Date: 2018-06-26

A 4+, and as is common with routes graded 4 in Utby it is weird. Not bad, not good.

Gear: Do not remember.

Anchor: Tree, quite far in, backed up with a #3 Friend.

Utby, Rönnleden

Date: 2018-06-26

A rare, very nice, 4+ route. In the guide book it is declared a really good beginners route. I would agree, but building the anchor might be a bit tricky.

Gear: A few nuts and I think I placed a #1 Friend.

Anchor: #2 and #.75 Friends, yet the anchor was still a bit too low for my taste.

Utby, Ragnhilds Näsa

Date: 2018-06-26

Not done

First good placement I found was on the actual nose (5m up). It might be possible to place something in the first horizontal crack, but I could not find anything. I fell after placing my first piece, but before being able to mantle onto the nose. After a rest and securing my cam with a nut, I was able to proceed to the wall climbing part, but with only an additional #2 in the big horizontal crack I did not feel safe proceeding up the slab. It is probably fine to take a fall there, but I’ll probably TR this one before I give it another try.

Gear: #.5 in the nose, backed up with a small nut. #2 in the horizontal after the nose.

Anchor: N/A

Utby, Asterik och Obelix

Date: 2018-07-06

Dihedron that offers som really nice stemming and crack climbing.

Gear: #.5, #.75, and #1 Friends. Finished of with a sling around the tree.

Anchor: I did not belay my second from the top, but he opted to TR the route from the birch.

Fjällbo, Gunnars Skräck

Date: 2018-07-15

A really nice slab, sort of in a dihedron.

Gear: Some really nice nuts and maybe a #1 friend.

Anchor: Bolted if you do only the first part.

Fjällbo, Skivblocket

Date: 2018-07-15

Spectacular piece of rock just standing there. Quite exposed and serious.

Gear: #.75 friend and one bolt.

Anchor: Bolted

Fjällbo, ?

Date: 2018-07-15

A short crack. If you traverse to the right and then continue up the route is called Limus. We did not know this and went straight up (significantly easier).

Gear: #.5, #.75, (#1) friends, one big (13/14) nut in the upper section.

Anchor: If you have duplicates of small cams, you can use these. I had to run into to the woods and find a tree…

Fjällbo, Chivas Regal

Date: 2018-07-19

Nice crack, with a mini traverse on a good ledge. Crack climbing that does not require jamming.

Gear: A lot. Used a full set of friends (minus the #4) and 4 or 5 nuts.

Anchor: Trees. So many good trees.

Fjällbo, Koskenkorva

Date: 2018-07-19

Crack to the right of the previous route that has given name to the crag. Not as nice as Chivas regal.

Gear: A lot of cams and nuts.

Anchor: Trees. So many good trees.

Fjällbo, Drambuie

Date: 2018-07-19

First 5+ on-sight. Committing start, but not very difficult.

Gear: #.5 - #1 and a #3 friends, + a lot of nuts.

Anchor: Trees. So many good trees.

Gärdsås, Mowgli

Date: 2018-07-31

Nice, shorter, route well in the shades on a very warm day.

Gear: One 14 nut, and basically a set of friends. (Might have omitted the #.75.)

Anchor: A very big tree

Utby, Skärselden

Date: 2018-08-04

Crack climbing, but not very difficult. Nice route!

Gear: A diverse rack is good.

Anchor: Two medium sized nuts. Also trees available a bit further from the edge.

Utby, Slabben

Date: 2018-08-04

Basically a huge block that forms a nice slab.

Gear: Two nuts and a cam!

Anchor: Nope. We simply jumped off at the end.

Utby, Spagaten

Date: 2018-08-04

Such. A. Good. Route.

I have probably climbed this route 10 times, but never on lead. The experience is so much more intense when leading it. Despite being very familiar with the route I went of the route a little bit (started doing the “direct” version, bumps the grade up one notch to a 6-) and had to down climb two moves. Ugh. Pulled myself together and finished the route. Intense!

Gear: A lot of really nice nuts, but some cams are nice to have (#1 and #2).

Anchor: There’s a big block you can put a sling around. Also some bomber nut placements and if you have #.5 and #.75 cams there are good placements for those too.

Utby, Torrsimmet

Date: 2018-08-04

Intense climbing that requires some really cool body jams. Spectacular body roll move at the end if one wants to avoid belly flopping your way up the last part.

Gear: Definately requires big gear (used #3 and #4, could easily have used another of each). Some good nuts.

Anchor: Sling around a big rock and a nut in the wall did the trick.

Utby, Laybacksprickan

Date: 2018-09-19

Quite nice crack that offers one or two good layback moves. Video

Gear: Small cams. Used 1/2 Alien Revo, 2x.5 Friends, and a couple of small nuts.

Anchor: 240 sling around a tree.

Utby, Mirceas Led

Date: 2018-09-19

A wonderful, but oh so short, finger crack. A bit tricky to get up onto, but offers solid crack climbing for 8 meters. Video can be found here.

Gear: Mostly nuts, but a .5 Friend (or x4 in this case) was good to have.

Anchor: 240 sling around a tree.

Fjällbo, Sodom

Date: 2018-09-24

Two routes in one(?). A bit weird, but quite good. Especially the upper half which offers some nice stemming in a tight dihedral. Video

Gear: A bit of everything

Anchor: A #4 and a #.75 Friend. (There are trees further up that can be used.)

Ramberget, Dubbelsprickan

Date: 2018-10-20

The hardest 4- I have ever done. Ramberget in general seems quite sandbagged, but I guess that’s what happens when one person establishes a whole crag? Video

Gear: Small to medium sized friends and a few nuts.

Anchor: A #4 and a #3 Friend.

Ramberget, Hörnet [First Ascent]

Date: 2018-10-20

A really, really, nice crack in a dihedral. Not in the guide book, but I have a hard time imagining this has not been climbed before. Nevertheless, I would grade this 5(-) but given the other grades in the area it is probably a 4(-). Video

Gear: #1 friends and smaller

Anchor: IIRC one #4 and one larger nut.

Ramberget, Taktraversen

Date: 2018-10-20

Probably the best route on the left wall (Ramberget constitutes of Stora Plattan to the left and Svarta Väggen to the right). Varied climbing with a non trivial traverse under a roof. We ended on the chain (which can be used for rappelling) but you can probably climb the last meter or so if you want to.

Gear: Quite a lot. Requires quite big gear, but you may also find small cams useful.

Anchor: I clipped the chain, was lowered, and belayed my second from the ground. Presumably much more convenient than attempting to build something at the top.